since 1911
• Willner Chemists •
the nutritional supplement professionals
Paradise Herbs
Natural Hair Color.
Why is it better?
written by Eileen Sheets,Director of
Regulatory Affairs, Herbatint.
Todaythere are so many choices in hair
color, and so many claims being made about
herbal and natural that it can be overwhelm-
ing to choose the best one to use. By educat-
ing yourself you can decide which is the right
product for you.
The first thingto know is there-is no such
thingas a completely natural permanent hair
tint. Many hair color brands today have
jumped on the "natural" bandwagon by
includinga minimal amount of botanical
extracts, while maintaining the rest of the
chemical components of their hair color for-
mula. These are generally the ones you see
in the drugstores. The truth is it is not possi-
ble to provide a stable, permanent color
without some man-made ingredients. But the
good news is that there are natural hair col-
ors using minimal synthetic ingredients.
Typical mass market (drugstore brand s) col-
oring systems contain pa ra bens, ammonia,
hydrogen peroxide, propylene glycol, hexy-
lene glycol, alcohol and more chemicals that
are known irritants, and some are known
carcinogens. For women—and men—who
are sensitive or who have allergies, this com-
bination can result in discomfort, with rashes
and facial swelling. Even those mass market
hair colors that have removed the ammonia
can be problematic since they would have to
replace the function of the ammonia with
another chemical, which could in fact, be a
more aggressive substance..
Another ingredient to be aware of is PPD
(P-Phenylenediamine). The most common
allergic reactions to PPD and related com-
pounds are dermatitis of the eyes, ears, scalp
and face, which may include a rash, extreme
swellinganci a severe burning sensation on
the scalp. At this time, PPD is still necessary
for stable, true color; you cannot get perma-
nent hair color without it, regardless of the
claims made. However, natural hair color
uses it in much smaller amounts than found
in mainstream colors. The best natural hair
tints derive their colors from plant sources.
By utilizing the synergy between the plant
color and the chemical ingredients well, it is
possible to minimize the chemical ingredi-
ents and get salon quality results. Often, con-
sumers who typically react to mainstream
hair colors are able to use natural plant col-
ors with no problems. So it appears it is not
just the ingredient, but also the amount of
that ingredient that causes problems. This is
why a sensitivity test is important, even with
a natural hair color. It is the only way to
know if you might be one of the few people
who will react. Currently, it appears that
around 2% will be sensitive.
Additionally, many mainstream hair colors
damage the hair itself. Here's how: ammonia-
based chemical colors are very alkaline in
order to open the cuticles wide enough for
the artificial color pigments to get into the
cortex of the hair. Such a high pH is particu-
larly damagingto the hair's natural protein
structure. The treated hair can become very
dry and coarse because the cuticle has been
forced so far open it cannot completely re
close. Manufacturers also add silicones or
proteins that coat the hair shaft and fill in the
spaces where the cuticle is damaged and can
no longer close all the way back down. This
process initially makes the hair feel soft and
adds shine as well as traps the pigments. But
with subsequent shampooing, the silicones
and proteins are removed, leaving the cuticle
partially open, allowing pigment to escape
and resulting in deterioration of the hair.
Natural plant-based colors avoid this problem
by carefully balancing the synergy between
plant color and chemical ingredients, allow-
ing for the best possible result with the small-
est amount of chemicals. This is possible
because the color molecules from the plants
are smaller than the chemical color mole-
cules, so the cuticle does not have to open
so much to let the color in. This contrasts
with mainstream products in which the cuti-
cle is forced wide open so that the large
color molecules can get into the hair, but the
cuticle is damaged, and can never close
completely again.
Natural, plant based color does not cause
this damage to the cuticle. Plus a low pH
level found in many natural hair colors helps
to push the cuticle closed. It is important to
use a brand that has utilized low pH levels to
naturally close the cuticle. If you see proteins
or silicone in the ingredient listing, it is a
good indicator that the color does not utilize
smaller plant color molecules.
Peroxide is necessary in all hair coloring
products to cover gray. In natural products,
since the cuticle does not have to be forced
open as much, a lower peroxide level (3 per-
cent compared to up to 20 percent) is effec-
tive with the smaller color molecules. The
benefit is that the cuticle can close more
fully, makingthe hair smoother, shinier and
keeping the color in longer. There is a down-
side to this. A consumer with dark brown
hair can't become a blonde using a natural
plant color. That change requires a lot more
chemical. However, it is possible to go a
shade or two lighter and to change the tones
in the hair, as well as achieve effective gray
coverage.
Another way to access a healthier hair
color system is to determine if it contains
alcohol in the formula. Alcohol is a known
absorption aid. The outermost layer of the
skin, functions as a barrier to absorption. But
alcohol can enhance absorption through that
layer, which is why it is used in many trans
dermal patches. Since there is still some
chemical in even natural hair color you
wouldn't want to promote absorption of it.
There is another way to reduce the chemical
impact even more. Look for a brand that uti-
lizes a brush and bowl like they do in salons.
Brushing the color on the hair reduces its
contact with the scalp. It is also the most
effective way to deposit the color. By usingth-
is technique, rather than usinga bottle to
squirt color on, the consumer can minimize
even further contact with the chemicals.
For men, they should know that the hair
colors marketed directly to them may be
exactly the same formula as ma rketing to
woman, just different packaging. However
some say they are formulated to work on
men's tough facial hair. This formula is
undoubtedly more aggressive. But if a man is
interested in coloringthe hair on his head, a
natural plant formula will work as well on a
man, and provide him the same benefits.
Consumers should look for formulas that
contain any of the following: color from plant
extracts such as rhubarb and black walnut;
aloe vera, which is abundant in enzymes,
proteins and polysaccharides that nourish the
hair and the scalp; vitamins A, C and E and
mineral salts that soothe the scalp and pro-
tect, strengthen and thicken the hair fibers;
. . . continued on page 110
*These statements have not been evaluated by the Food & Drug Administration. This product is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease.
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